Jul
17
18th and 19th Century Furniture. Tables and Cabinets.
July 17, 2009 | Leave a Comment
Corner joints desk with display cabinet .
from the bottom of the member edge, after which a -is-in walnut veneer wardrobes art deco . rabbet, 1//,(, in japanned bracket clocks . deep is cut at the bottom modern art deco bookcase . A Y4-in marius sabino leaping gazelle . rabbet cut from the opposite side will leave a in art deco furniture bugati . x %a in victorian cutlery tray - eng oak . tongue projecting dressoir antique .
In the front member a Y4-in francois linke black lacquered napoleon lll . dado is cut ‘//If, in herbert hoover antiques . down from the top or inner face to a depth equal to the thickness of the side member, in this case Y8 in naples 1771-1834 porcelain cherub . As illustrated, the top or inner side of this dado is now cut off %C, in antique claw foot card table . from the bottom finmar alvar aalto stool . If the work has been carefully done the two pieces will interlock, and, when glued, will require no other fastenings flemish antique table .
To complete the survey it should be remembered that blind dowels can be employed, with or without mitered corners sheraton cutlery urns . As previously stated, some Earl)? Georgian pieces make no attempt to conceal frontal peggings knockdown furniture .
Lock miter and rabbet and miter joints are included in the plate for informa antique meissen clock .
tional purposes coffee table base rococo antique . Their construction with hand tools requires some ingenious clamping and jigging antique dragon carpets .
Dovetail joints chippendale pedistal drum table . Perhaps one of the strongest of joints in fine cabinetmakin; is the dovetail joint (Figure 1 american empire daybed 19th century .33), because it resists separation in every directiol but the one from which the tenons were inserted, and even this weakness can be eliminated by gluing or pinning inlaid spanish table antique . As a corner joint, the dovetail is considereo a mark of good workmanship because its close fit is achieved at the price f accurate, painstaking labor and craftsmanship george bullock drawing . Although such a joint might be considered a postgraduate cabinetmaker’s subject, yet the enthusiastic woodworker will probably attempt its construction at some time in his career antique metal table with porcelain top . Its precision of fit is obtained by an elementary set of measurements, carefully executed antique 1800 century chest of drawers 7 drawyer mahogony .
Since the open, or through, dovetail is in reality but a modification of th, mortise and tenon joint, the first question facing the uninitiated is: Which are tenons, or pins, and which are the mortises, sockets, or dovetails (”tails”)? 01 a drawer, it is obvious that the dovetail joint must be so cut that it will withstaitl separation when the drawer is pulled out by its front antique square gateleg table . Therefore, the wider, fa
tailed mortises, sockets, are on the sides to hold the (often) narrower tenons, pins, of the front member against withdrawal antique drop leaf gate leg table .
Single through tenons are useful when edging drawing boards or work-tabl tops or for jointing stiles to upper drawer rails utensils used in britain for cooking . To insure a strong joint the to (mortise) is generally cut so that it is 4/10 of the width of the member along th-depth line chippendale dining table with 3 curved legs . The sides of the tail generally slope i in marius sabino leaping gazelle . in 6 in william taylor antiques . The procedure is a simplification of the methods explained in the following paragraphs antique perpetual calendar .
A finger (or box) joint consisting of the series of multiple square tenons and mortises is familiarly observed at the corners of small boxes such as honeycomb containers wood with mother of pearl inlay wall art . A multiple through dovetail, however, is a horse of another color venetian micromosaic mirror .
Certain general rules can be profitably applied to the art of dovetailing 18 century display cabinets . In the first place, the pins may be smaller than or equal in size to the tails, but in
Multiple Dove softwood are customarily wider than in hardwood construction new york antiques light art deco . For hardwood a good rule to follow is that the thickness on the (widest) face of the pins shall be approximately three fourths of the thickness of the wood antique dowry caskets . It is also good practice to insure that the distance from center to center of the pins is more than twice and less than three th-nes their width chinese chamber pot . In laying out muliple throng dovetails, the two outer or end pins are usually scaled down to half size, pl s Y8 in coalbrookdale neptune dish . for necessary strength japanese characteristic of later 19th century decoration . Both pins and sockets can be of equal width f desired, although, as previously stated, many craftsmen prefer the thinner pins
approximately one third of the width of the sockets at their wide ends multipurpose dressing table . Pin widt s are seldom cut less than Y4 in chinoiserie embossed tables . wide, however ancient chair design .
For the purpose of laying out a series of sockets, let us assume a drawer front Y8 in antique talavera . thick and 7Y2 in serving table . wide, with the mating side Y2 in collecting antique hair combs . thick table octagon marquetry drawer . The fir–t thing to do is to check to see that both ends are accurately squared 1930 art deco french armchairs . Since it s the side member that is to be cut into sockets or tails, it is first necessary -* estimate the number of pins to be cut in the front victorian candlesticks . On the basis of a Y8 in beilby glass prince of wales feathers newcastle . thit, drawer front, pins -Y4 of this thickness in width would average about -Y8 in 16th century spoons london . their faces george 1 walnut kneehole chest . For the distance between centers, if the mean of 2Y2 times the wid of the pins is selected, the resulting measurement will be i’%(, in mirrors design for dressing tables ., which wh- mahongony antique sideboards . divided into the 7Y2-i” occasional table dropleaf vintage . width of the drawer goes approximately 5 times, that i 5 centered spaces or sockets antique wood inlayed wine cellaret photos . However, there is to be a half pin at either end t the joint; therefore there will be but 4 full pins in all period hepplewhite cherry gateleg table .
Since a pin of half thickness is usuall too thin for safe cutting, it is customs to add an extra Y8 in antique italian marble box with fish legs . at each end to strengthen these half pins antique concertina door linen case . Accordingly, two lines are drawn Y8 in desk cabinet 18 century . in from each edge of the side member to represent the centers of the end sockets, the socket the maximum thickness of -Y8 in marble topped “robert adam” table . is next centered and connecting lines scribed between the joint edge and the back line to form the complete pin flatware forks types . An alternate method is to mark only the width of the pin along the board’s edge; then, by setting and clamping a bevel to register a slope of i to 6, the parallel sides of all pins are projected across the depth line art nouveau era used nesting tea tables . The bevel is then turned over and the other sides are marked and later joined horizontally across the center lines 19th century daybed .
FIG small antique specimen queen anne display . 1 early 18th century oak gate leg dining table .35 empire chest of drawers . Completed layout for dovetail wedgwood cache pot .
When several dovetails are to be layed out, a convenient device for speeding up the work is the T square shown in Figure 1 1840 gate leg tables .36 6′ chestnut refectory table . A I ill 1700’s tilt top bird cage tea table . x 3 in v shaped sideboard . piece of 3/ t antique.new.dresden.large.figurine .-in desk aaron burr . transparent plastic or celluloid has i in eastern breakfast tables . of one end accurately cut or filed on each side to a ratio of 1:6 antique drop leaf side table with 4 legs . This is fastened with
4 screws at a measured right angle to a squared block of hardwood Vic, in myott son & co from the 1920s . x li in 1828 sideboard buffet . x 4 in thomas hope chairs curule legs . The use of this T square will be greatly facilitated if a baseline upon which to proportion the average width of the tails (or pins) is squared off on the member to be measured, midway between the first depth line and the end of the board biedermeier bedside tables . The parallel spacing lines are then projected across or down to this baseline, indicating the average width of the tails thuringia biscuit . If the T square is applied at this point, no further measurements will be required art nouveau artist .
The actual cutting of the tails is as simple as sawing a double tenon english writing desk spiral legs . For the mechanic who has mastered the brace and bit, it is feasible to bore the proper sized holes at the depth of the tails antique table standing mirror . Then after clamping the piece vertically in a vise, the sides of the tails can be sawed with a backsaw french animal chairs . The socket bottoms can be finished off with a coping saw or chiseled across, cutting halfway through one side of the stock at a time galletables . For a perfect fit the saw kerfs must always he cut ‘n the waste material antique dining room sets empire style .
The dovetailed piece of drawer siding is now used as a templet for laying out the pins on the drawer’s front edge antique metal double candelabra . The dovetailed member is held firmly at a right angle while the tails are traced to outline the pins acanthus 16 century italian design . The depth of the pins is equal to the thickness of the drawer side, in this case Y2 in antique pembroke . Mark and cut as for tails hanoverian pattern forks . When several dovetails are to be cut to the same size, the members of each set of pins or tails can be clamped together and sawed out at one time palissy british .
Although the preceding instructions were based on a drawer whose carcass was jointed with through dovetails, such a joint is seldom encountered in the front of a drawer butterfly table in the eighteenth century . Instead the pins and tails are camouflaged by one of the three metlods shown in Figure 1 depression swizzle stick .33 antique octagon table brass wood . Half-lap dovetails are cut so that the side members lock into two thirds or three fourths of the thickness of the drawer front 19th century chinese silk works . Except for diagonal saw cuts along the sides table clocks 18th century american . the mortises in the front members must be chiseled out, after they are scribed from the tails, as in through-dovetail layot t cabriole antique chairs styles . Half pins are essential for a finished appearance at the top and bottom antique 18″ square drop leaf table on casters .
In a stopped dovetail the tails are cut only part of the way through the thic Hess of the side member, so that the pins are concealed in the final assembly thonet bentwood chair queen anne legs . n this case the pins are cut first antique english bone china tea sets empire . to be used as a templet for the stopped tails antique wheel engraved glass patterns .
A more satisfactory method of hiding the mortises in a dovetail joint is y means of a double-lapped dovetail, which fits together in the form of a rabbet d corner with the stopped pins in the drawer front leaving a sufficient projection of the front edge to cover the half end grain of the sides etling france 110 “opalescent glass” .
The height of perfection is achieved in the construction of the secret mit•r dovetail, as illustrated 19th century french furniture . This precise example of fine cabinetmaking, like the oth r modifications noted above, rosewood antiquite - decoration . must be chiseled out, with the exception of the rnit•r saw cuts that joint the shoulders, followed by triangular kerfs sawn as in t e stopped-lap dovetail antique alexander tables .
GLUING
Glue is a fastener that penetrates the entire surface of the wood, forming ti V tongues that lock into the microscopic mortises or pores between the fibers round rosewood breakfast table . Unli e nails and screws, which bind two pieces of wood only at single points of contact antiques antique oak sideboards dutch style . a good gluing job literaliv welds the pieces together with a strength usually great r than that of the members forming the joint antique tray table white . For successful gluing, (I) the gl ie must be good; (2) the joint must fit accurately: (3) due allowance must be male for shrinking; and (4) pressure must be properly applied for a sufficient time antique oak dresser base .
Animal glue emile-jacque ruhlmann/chairs . Professional cabinetmakers have long favored hot animal gut e, original;v because of its relatively short drying time as well as for its suitabili y for rubbed joints 19th century antique furniture makers . Animal glue comes in sheets and in crushed or powdered for 1 new york skyline metal pieces . It is heated in a cast-iron glue pot in the form of a double boiler collectors of paul frankl . Stich a pot c antique art deco furniture black lacquer . n
I
be improvised from a tin can, with its top cut off flush, fitted into a larger c n with space for the hot water small antique bowed front serving buffet european . Bits of brick, stones, or small an austrian antique furniture designers .-le irons on th•ir sides should be placed in the bottom of the large call to separate the two bottoms “gordon russell” “oak furniture” . The glue is placed in the smaller receptacle, covered with water, and allowed to soak from 3 to 8 hours, until it swells to a jellylike mass without liquefying antique chamber sets .
When the glue is to be used, the bottom section of the glue-pot assembly is filled with sufficient water and the glue is heated to about 150° F chamber pot cabinet commode 1800 ., being stirred the while but not with sufficient force to produce air bubbles art-deco-1920-1930-wood . A good glue will give off no objectionable odors while being heated antique german chamber pot .
When the glue becomes creamy and drips from the stirring paddle in long strings, it is ready for use vintage chinese porcelain with two swords marked . It should be maintained at room temperature thereafter until the work is completed ivory collectors . In using hot glue the wood should be warmed first to prevent chilling the glue into setting before pressure call be properly applied antique half table . Animal glue is not waterproof antique games chest .
Fish Glue arts and crafts furniture, antique collectors . Fish glue comes in liquid form, which is especially useful for the occasional worker because haste in its application is not required soup turrene . In fact, after it has been brushed on to both of the surfaces to be joined, it is permitted to stand for a few minutes to observe whether excess absorption will require further touching up before the joint is permanently assembled value of william and mary butterfly table . Although not as strong as animal glue it is excellent for softwoods figurines from the pastorals of porcelain . Fish glue is not waterproof and may require warming during cold weather german ebonized cupboard .
Casein Glue silver jockey cap tea caddy . Casein glue has become increasingly popular in the home workshop, oNving to its strength and quick-setting and slow-curing properties green wedgewood plant pots . It comes packaged in powdered form with full directions for mixing it with cold water 1950’s staffordshire porcelain religious figural . Since it sets within 4 hours, only enough should be mixed for the job on hand front ornaments for sofas . It should be applied like liquid (fish) glue, and the clamps should be put on within 2o minutes lou sue art . The result is a waterproof, heat-resistant joint, stronger than the wood itself early 18th century dining table . Casein glue will deteriorate when exposed to salt water or the action of molds maple art deco . Latest reports indicate, however, that glue can be made resistant to mold in warm, wet, tropical climates, by adding 5 per cent of an organic mercury fungicide-bactericide to the (Iry glue; before the wood joints are bonded together, one side is treated with a diluted formaldehyde solution turn tripod into table .
Plastic Glue antique kayseri silk carpet pictorial hunting . Plastic glue also comes in powdered form to be mixed with cold water, according to directions boulle tortoiseshell . Unlike casein glue, however, the mixture will last longer—about 6 hours at 7o’ down to 45 minutes at ioo’; in hot weather the life of the mix can be prolonged by setting it in cold water antique engraving hanoverian spoon crest . It is heat resistant Lip to about l5o’ F meals in eighteenth century england . and waterproof to both fresh and salt water 1800 italian dining room sets .
Resin-type plastic is an excellent, waterproof adhesive, which comes in two forms burr coffee table . The full-strength liquid plastic is syrupy and light colored, and requires the addition of a hardening agent just before being used 1710, 1735 japanned high chest . This is made by adding C decorative writing styles .P walnut veneer wardrobes art deco . hydrochloric acid, 3 volumes to i volume of distilled water, well stirred in a glass or porcelain container paul de lamerie reproduction . A thin laver isbrushed on both surfaces to be joined, before pressure is applied art nouveau tables galle . Ar room, temperature from 4 to 12 hours will be required for full hardening acanthus leaves rococo period furniture . This time call be reduced to about a half hour if the work can be heated to 150° F find small antique tables inlaid with ivory made in india .
Emulsified plastic consists of a thin, white suspension of plastic in water and is slower setting and subject to more shrinkage than the full-strength liquid reclining chair, philip webb .
Clamps gustav klimt porcelain . Good glued joints cannot be achieved unless subjected to sufficient pressure while the glue is setting georgian sideboard tables . Woods of ordinary densities require from too to 200 lb of pressure per square inch or, roughly, i bar clamp per foot for edg2- glued stock i in seventeenth century english stoneware . thick george i folding card table antique . Close-grained hardwoods require greater pressure 18th century knife boxes . T
pressure, however, must not be great enough to distort the wood what types of materials were used in george hepplewhite furniture . Although weigh ropes, chains, or wedging in frames can be employed, the london, england silver, antiques . old stand-bys are the hand screws, C clamps, and bar clamps 1930s curved dining chairs .
The hand screw is the oldest form of clamp and, when thoroughly mastered, is quite versatile 1940’s mahogany dining chairs . To open its jaws evenly, the handle of the middle spindle (nearest the jaws) is grasped with the right hand and the handle of the end spindle in the left hand, jaws facing outward modern tripod table monopodia . Hands rotate in a clockwise manner as the ja rs are swung down and toward the operator until the desired opening is obtaine 1 lidded urn with hole underneath . When being applied to the work, the middle spindle adjusts to the work size, th n the end spindle applies the pressure until the jaws are parallel dutch furniture marquetry antiques .
Face-to-face gluing requires heavy, equalized pressure, and may utilize a y or all three types of clamps, depending upon the sizes of the members to be bonde 1 american spoonback armchair . When wide boards are to be joined, small brads tapped into one member ai d snipped off short will prevent creeping value of satin birch chest of drawers . Top and bottom bearers or battens c n be used with hand screws or C clamps at both ends, when bar clamps are not ava
able antique dining room table rectangle +connected double pedestal . Dowels are very useful for reinforcing boards glued face to face orrefors blown glass & stemware & smoky gray .
In selecting sides to be glued it must be remembered that the sap site 0
tends to cup because it contains more moisture than the heart side federal cylinder desk . Therefo in face-to-face gluing the sap sides are joined with the grain parallel—never -t right angles carl walters ceramics . Since the force exerted by shrinkage is tremendous, it is unfair o expect glue to perform a miracle makers of silver table ware in late 1800’s . In view of this, whenever possible, lumber shoo d be cut roughly to size and planed several days before the actual gluing is to take place chinese influence to rococo .
Edge-to-edge gluing will be more successful if heart and sap pieces are alter nated, so that whatever shrinkage results will produce a slight waviness, rather
than a deep bulge patent imperial dining table . Bar clamps are convenient for securing this type of glued joint, with large hand screws or C clamps and bearers along the edges antique library book trough stand . Bar clamps may be improvised, as shown in Figure 1 antique victorian porcelain jars .37 or, if a heavy bench or table top is available, a frame of 2 x 4’s call be screwed to the flat top and the work wedged into place, as illustrated in Figure 1 4 foot walnut drop leaf table .38 early meissen figures . In all cases, the boards being glued must be kept flat with suitable wedges, to prevent their arching under pressure barley twist english antique writing desk . Before the glue is applied the edges should be checked carefully against the light to insure that the ends meet closely leon and maurice jallot french dining chair . A slight bulge in the center will be rectified by the clamps louis xiv dining table .
End grain can be glued provided it is first sized with a weak glue solution to prevent suction antique spring loaded drawer arm . By thus filling the pores the final, extra-thick glue coat will not be too much absorbed spider legs folding card table . An end-grain glued joint is weak at best, and where conditions permit, a scarf joint should be substituted potters stoke on trent empire rococo . For hardwoods the slope of the scarf should be approximately 15 times the thickness of the stock antique 19th century tilt top tea tables .
Framing is the classic example of “cramping” operations, and is of prime importance in furniture construction antique wassily chair with breuer signature in the leather . As in all gluing procedures, the first step is to assemble the parts “dry,” to see that the fit is exact antique rectangular gate-leg tables . At this time a thorough check for wind and surface flatness should be made, and a test for squareness carried out by means of diagonals and the try square at each corner examples of anthemion designs on ceramic tableware .
After the glue and clamps have been applied, if the work leans or twists in any direction, the clamps must be shifted or screwed in that direction for the necessary correction, or a long bar clamp may be applied as a diagonal enamel top antique table drop leaf . In all
long
cases the clamping action must parallel the true pressure line viktor schreckengost, enamel artwork .
Miter gluing is an art in itself and various jigs can be devised to secure a well-glued joint rococo tureens . There is a simple miter clamp commercially available that gives excellent results when it is possible to bore half holes in the back of the miter lacquer tray round antique black . Other satisfactory homemade jigs will be explained later under picture frame construction in Chapter 2 demilune chest makers antiques .
In general how high above a sideboard should a mirror be hung . joints in hardwood should remain clamped 2 or 3 hours longer than those in softwood patent ironstone . The minimum drying time depends upon the room temperature and the type of glue, with the casein and plastic glues setting in from 4 to 7
setting in hours value of hand painted wales china tea set .
A full 1 2 hours of setting will insure a sound fit art deco table lamps new york city . At least 24 hours should be allowed for seasoning circular antique library steps .
Finally, it must be realized that although glue will fill gaps it cannot be relied upon to tighten loose-fitting joints, because it cracks when hardened in the air perspectiva cabinet . Because of the shrinking and expanding effects of temperature on wood, panels should never be glue(> in their grooves, nor should the shoulders of tenons be touched with the glue brush regency/george iv silver candelabra suite . Successful gluing operations are insured when the clamps are opened to their approximate size before the even film of glue is applied to both members of the joint robert adams marquetry . Waxed paper used freely under the jaws of clamps will prevent sticking as the glue dries thomas sheraton dresser .legend indicates that each square measures i in used walnut drop leaf tables . on a side, a full-sized pattern can be laid out in squares of the indicated size empire art style -borderlands -pictobits -nintendo . The points where the lines of the pattern cross the horizontal and ver how to value lowboy queen anne . tical lines of the graph or squares are spotted on the draw antique american oak writing table . ing and transferred to the full-sized pattern french fashion in 19 century . By connecting these spots the design is reproduced gillows burr walnut desk ormolu mounts . When only half
pattern is graphed out into squares, the opposite, identica jiajing ming porcelain . portion can be reproduced by folding the pattern over wedgwood blu porcelain pagoda .
Jul
8
Tools and Supplies for Restoration and Repair
July 8, 2009 | Leave a Comment
Tools and supplies
A handyman’s guide from 1902 offers the opinion that without tools, the hand would be powerless. It was some 500,000 years ago that the first implements were used, probably scraps of stone or bone picked up off the ground in a moment of frustration. These days our tools are highly specialized and costly, but a well-made tool will always make a job easier and more enjoyable.
On the following pages, tools are divided into groups
according to their use—you find tools for hammering, gripping, sawing, etc., with similar tools illustrated in close proximity.
Tools should be kept clean and sharp, in a suitable container such as a tool box, or hung on the wall near the workspace. Probably the most important items, after the few essential tools listed below, are clean cotton rags and containers with lids—it seems that you never have enough of either. Get in the habit of saving all clean scraps from pure cotton clothing, sheets, etc., and keep them handy. Also 4oard glass jars, tins and otter containers with lids, but do bear in mind that some chemicals such as spirit-based ones, tend to dissolve plastic, while some react with acids. Finally, keep all tools and supplies properly labelled.
BASIC SUPPLIES
Ammonia Beeswax Benzine Cardboard, white
Chalk, powdered or stick
Chamois
Cotton wool or absorbent cotton
Denatured alcohol (methylated spirits)
Double boiler
Empty glass jars, tin cans and atomizer
spray bottles
Glue, general purpose or PVA
Japan paints
Jewelers’ rouge or pumice powder
Kerosene (paraffin)
Linseed oil
Masking tape, acid-free
Matches, wooden
Pencils, hard and well sharpened
Powdered pigments, especially raw umber Purified water
Rags, soft cotton
Shellac String
Thermometer, cooking
Turpentine
Turpentine substitute
Tweezers Varnish Vinegar
Wire mesh strainer, small
BASIC TOOL KIT
Abrasive paper, sanding block, and assorted abrasive papers
Combination pliers (6in/15cm) square-nosed type, with side cutters
Knife with replaceable blades, which also takes saw blades
Metal ruler (12 - 18in/30 - 46cm) for use when cutting along straight edge
Screwdriver (6iri/15cm) and bradawl for starting holes
T (or try) square (6iri/15cm) to ensure right angles
The following tools are nice to have, but are not essential for beginners:
Bench vice
File, combination, for use on wood or metal Hand drill, bit brace and countersink bit Panel saw or tenon saw
Power drill and attachments (sanding and buffing wheels, masonry bits, etc.)
Combination oilstone for sharpening the blade
Wood chisels (Nin/2cm) bevel-edged firmer
(Y4in/2cm) and mallet (41/2in/Ilem)
8
ABRASIVE PAPERS
Store abrasive papers in a warm, dry place and never attempt to use them on damp wood. Always use at least two grades when trying to get a really smooth finish; coarse paper, wom smooth, will not give the same effect as a finer paper. While working “snap” abrasive paper to unclog it. Incidentally, there is no such thing as “sandpaper” and although these papers feel gritty, sand has been replaced by more effective smoothing agents.
The five types of abrasive paper used for smoothing woods are as follows: Glass paper, with grains made from crushed glass (once reputedly derived from crushed port bottles). It is available with a base of cloth or paper and is commonly used for hand smoothing. Garnet paper, with grains made of crushed garnet stone, so it costs a bit more but it is very durable and recommended for smoothing by hand. Aluminurn oxide paper, used when really heavy cutting action is desired—its synthetic grains are very tough. Silicone carbide paper, also known as “wet-and-dry” paper because it can be used damp (not wet) for fine smoothing of paintwork or dry like other abrasive papers. When damp it leaves a black-grey “gravy” which has to be washed off, but when lubricated with water, it lasts a long time. It can be used on both metal and wood and is also available on a cloth base. Flint paper, rarely used any more, although it is inexpensive, is not recommended because its grains are softer than glass or gamer, and it has a short life.
Both garnet and aluminum oxide papers come in “open coat” and “close coat”—with “open coat” there is more space between the grains, making it less likely to clog and therefore better for smoothing softwoods; while in “close coat” the grains are more closely spaced and are best for hardwoods.
Steel wool can be used for smoothing wood and the finer grades are recommended after smoothing with fine abrasive paper to give a final perfect finish. As with abrasive papers, always work with the grain. Wear a handkerchief tied “bandit-style” to protect your throat and lungs when sanding.
GLUES AND GLUEING
Glueing must be the simplest repair to do! Strangely it is often neglected which is unfortunate, because a little glue applied after slight damage can prevent more extensive problems. The section below deals with glues suitable for
porous materials like woodpaper, textiles, some plastics and rubber. A wooden matchstick is often perfect for applying non-water-soluble glues. Always save even the smallest splinters and chips and glue these in’pla after the main piece has set. For glueing X;s end pottery, see the detailed chapters conodmed
‘I bere are six basic types of i [ue in common use today.
Traditional glues such as animal and fish glues, casein glue and scotch glues are gradually being superseded as they are neither heat- nor waterproof Although they are not generally recommended some craftsmen~prcfer them— such as gilders, who use rabbit Glue.
General purpose glues, cellulose- or acetate-based, and usually sold .irk tubes are water-resistant, free from staring and excellent for fixing plastics, metals, and rfiost inlays to wood. Do not work with these near an open fire—they are inflammable—and avoid inhaling the fumes.
Epoxy resins are modem, synthetic-based glues. They are strong and versatile, perfect for home use, and usually come in *o part kits—a glue and a hardener. Most take about six hours to set but a warm room will speed the setting. Follow directions on the package as the mixtures vary slightly. Caution: synthetic resin glues become rubbery ifkept unused. “They should not be used for glucing wood as they are harder than the wood itself and allow nc natural movement and thus may cause splittir
Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) g~uc is a thick, white, cold-setting, inexpensive&-sin-based glue and can be used extensively, although it is not waterproof It will keep for several months (though not in a cold place) but may stain the lighter woods and tends to creep a bit. PVA is a good general purpose glue skid is often sold in a squeeze bottle with a handy poin ed nozzle. It is water-soluble.
Contact adhesives, which are isually rubber-based, are only recommended when clamping is difficult but a strong bond isidesircd. The glue is applied to both surfaces and, w* tacky, they
are brought together. The two Ofeces are immovable upon contact, so adjusting is impossible. They are very usefid when bonding other materials to wood.
Latex glues are derived ;he milky fluid of the rubber tree, although syr thctic latex is now manufactured. They can be applied either to one surface or both and are thinned with water. Their odor is slightly objectionable. Latex glues are perfect when working with textiles, although some fabric dyes seem soluble, so test an inconspicuous spot befc reapplication.
CLEANING BRUSHES
1. It is imperative to clean brushes when you have finished using them, or to soak them if leaving the project for a few hours. (Should you forget to soak the brush, the paint will harden on the bristles; only a very strong paint remover will restore the brush to usefulness and it will never be the same again.) Always remove excess paint from the bristles first by wiping them over old newspaper.
2. In order to soak the brush, prepare it by drilling a hole in the upper handle, as shown, then inserting a dowel which will suspend the brush in water up to the first of the fernile. (Use a container deep enough to keep the brush from resting on the bristles.) Some experts recommend storing brushes in white spirit, but this seems to dry out the bristles unnecessarily.
3. When you need to use the brush again, remove excess water from the bristles by 3quel zing them in soft absorbent cloth or paper
Caring for tools
Tools should be stored in a dryish atmosphere and away from children. After using tools with a metal part, it is a good idea to spread a film of light machine oil over the metal surface to prevent rusting. For this purpose, keep an oiled pad in a sealed container near the work area. Tools with wooden handles should be kept smoothed and well sanded to avoid splinters.
BRUSHES
Many different kinds of brushes are used in restoration and it is worth choosing them with care. A paintbrush has three parts: handle (I~ ferrule (2) and filling (3). The filling, or bristles, can be made from boar (used in the best quality brushes); horsehair (used to bulk out better filling); oxhair, squirrel and sable (used for thin artists’ paintbrushes); fibre (from the stem of the palm tree); or, increasingly, synthetic fibres (from filaments such as nylon). If possible, always invest in a good quality brush — it will hold more paint and apply it better than a cheaper brush and is less like1v to shed its bristles. Test brushes before purchasing by making sure the bristles fan evenly and that they are firmly set into the ferrule. Keep them in good condition by cleaning and storing as directed in Steps 1 – 6.
Three useful paintbrushes for the restorer are: a flat paintbrush (A~ a stencilling brush (B), and a lining brush (C). Another useful brush for many jobs is a wire brush (D).
4. To remove oil-based paint from a brush, fill a glass or metal container two-thirds full ofturpentine substitute. Agitate the brush in the liquid, pressing it against the side of the container to force out the paint. When the liquid can absorb no more paint, repeat until most of the paint is removed. To remove water-based paints, use the same technique in a jar of warm water.
5. Inspect the bristles near the ferrule to see if the paint is removed, then wash the bristles in warm, soapy water. Rinse and repeat Step 4 ifnecessary before washing and rinsing again.
Shake or blot out the moisture and leave to dry naturally, away from any heat source which will only dry out the natural oils in the bristles. Store the brush by wrapping it in brown paper, secured with a rubber band as shown, laying it flat if possible. Keep brushes used for water and oil-based paints separate, and reserve a 2-3in/5- 8cm brush specifically for varnish and shellac.
6. To keep small artists’ p brushes in good
condition, clean as above in S 4 and 5. Then point the brush by placing adrop oflight machine oil or linseed oil on the bristles and slowly rotating the bristles between the thumb and index finger.
Carving tools
Chisels are designed for cutting with or across gouges are used for less drastic action on wood
the grain, while
Chisels and gouges have narrow cutting edges and are each designed with a particular task in mind, so purchase the various types as they are required. The metal part is usually fitted to a bulbous handle made from boxwood or impact-resistant plastic.
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The main types of carving tools are: firmer chisel (A), available withblades in a variety of widths, often driven with a wooden or soft-face mallet although a hammer maybe used with plastic-handled chisels; bevelled-edge firmer chisel (B) with a slightly less rigid blade, used for lighter woodworking tasks such as undercutting dovetail housing joints, not designed for use with a mallet but tolerates light tapping; paring chisel (C) with longer blade, used to trim long grooves; firmer gouges (D) with curved blades of two types—one with the cutting bevel on the outside, used to make concave shapes, the other ground on the inside, used to make straight cuts that are curved in cross-section—both used with a mallet; paring gouge (F) for hand paring (without a mallet), ideal for cutting curved shapes of all kinds; and cold chisel (F) used to cut metal (for example for chain links, sheet metal and bolt or rivet heads), struck with a heavy hammer.
Cutting tools
Probably the most useful and versatile cutting tools are the knives with replaceable blades. There are four types of these, all with disposable blades which come ready-sharpened. The blades are terrifically sharp and should be stored and used with great care.The four types are: general purpose knife with replaceable blades (A), sometimes with blades that may be retracted and stored inside the handle; knife with snap-off blade (B), also retractable; and surgeon’s knife or scalpel (C), with blades removed manually.
Various useful kinds of scissors are: aviation snips or compound action snips (D) which will make straight or curved cuts in metal—they have specially firm jaws and comfortable plastic hand grips; pinking scissors (E) with a zig-zag cutting edge which makes the cut edge of fabric less likely to fray; embroidery scissors (F) with elongated blades ending in a fine point, useful for work on carpets and textiles; and cuticle scissors (G) with a curved blade, used in decoupage.
A glass cutter (H) has a hardened steel wheel mounted in a holder, and is used to score a line across a sheet of glass. Small pieces can be “nibbled” off back to the scored line using the notches on the side. (It helps to remove any grease from the glass with turpentine substitute and oil the cutting wheel before starting.)
Drilling tools
When using any drill, try to keep the pressure constant. If the drill wobbles, the drillbit may snap. When drilling metal select the appropriate bit and oil it lightly before starting; it may also help to make a small hole in the metal with a punch or awl. When using a
power drill, take care to disconnect it from the power source before making any adjustments, and be sure to examine the cable regularly for signs of damage or wear. Also, avoid wearing loose clothing or accessories that could get caught in the mo T g parts.
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A hand-drill (A) has a chuck shell at one end which turns anticlockwise to open the jaws that hold the bit. When the drillbit is central, rotate it to establish it in position, then use the drill at the desired speed. Various hand-drill bits are available for special tasks: twist bit (B) for metal and wood; dowel bit (C) for the side and end grain of wood; countersink bit (D) to recess a hole to accept a countersunk screw head; glass bit (E) for use at slow speed to drill holes in glass, mirror and porcelain; masonry bit (F) for drilling holes in brick, stone and ceramic tiles. A push drill
dri(G) can be used to make small holes in wood or plastic, using special drill points. A power drill (H) is probably the most versatile tool available; accessories include circular saws, sanding discs, grinders, rasps, even paint sprayers. Small hand tools such as augers and gimlets (I) can also be used to drill holes in wood; augers drill fairly large holes, gimlets shallow ones, often to take a screw. Bore the hole by twisting the tools in one direction only. Bradawls or awls (J) are used to start holes in timber for nails and screws and to make holes in leather. The bradawl is twisted right and left; the awl is inserted with pressure.
Gripping tools
Professionals will opt fora bench vice or a clamp-on vice (A), but these require a sturdy and steadfast table or workbench. Amateur restorer-, can make do with a variety of gripping tools, purchased as required. These include: “G” or “C” cramp (B) for clamping wood or metal work, used with a block of wood between the cramp and wood to prevent marking; spring cramp (C), a manual device to provide light pressure to an object while glueing-, mitre cramp (D) to hold mitred joins together while glue sets; needle-nosed pliers (E) to grip small objects in confined places, available in a variety of shapes and proportions, all with serrated jaws; slip-joint pliers (F}, with a pivot joint which provides two widths of jaw opening; carpenters pincers (G), with curved jaws which meet at a bevelled cutting edge, designed to extract nails and tacks from wood; and upholsterers’ pliers (11), used to stretch webbing across the chair frame by gripping the folded end of the webbing while the lower jaw touches the frame.
Hammers
The most useful hammer is the claw hammer (A), which may be used for removing bent nails as well as for driving nails home. (When pulling nails out, always protect the surface with a small block of wood placed under the front end of the hammer.) Others are: lightweight pin hammer or ball pin hammer (B), used for driving pins or tacks; upholsterers’ hammer (C), with a small rounded face for driving tacks in a confined space, and magnetized so that it holds the tack in place as it drives it home; soft faced hammer (D), used for driving or shaping materials such as soft metals which would otherwise be damaged —these usually have a socketed head into which soft bases are screwed; similar are soft faced mallets (E) with rubber or rawhide heads; and lastly, heavy carvers’ mallet (F}, designed to drive various chisels and gouges.
Fitting a new handle to a hammer head
1. Choose a new handle with an even, straight grain to the wood. Begin by cutting two evenly spaced slots across the head ofthe new shaft, two-thirds the depth of the hole. Drive the hammer head onto the shaft using another hammer.
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2. Cut the shaft flush with the top ofthe hammer head.
3. If steel wedges were used, drive th;m in with another hammer until they are level %?’th the top of the shaft. If there are no stee wedges, make some from bits of hardwood. Finally grind or file the wedges flush and varnish the expo sed wood.
Measuring tools
When making measurements, avoid using the common wooden yardstick, which is too inaccuram Instead use an engineer’s steel rule (A), ideally one scribed with both metric and imperial
measurements; a folding or zig-zag rule
push-pusteel tape (C); and (for fabric only) a
tape measure or a new digital rule (D) which is run over a surface and indicates the length in its display.’ro achieve accurate right angles, use a T or try square (E) or steel square. Cl-hc metal rule is highly recommended as it will not only measure, but also serve as a straight edge to guide a knife along when cutting veneers, plastic, leather etc.)
Sawing tools
‘There are three main kindsofsaw: large handsaws, stiff-backed saws for cutting joints, and special purpose saws. With all types, the greater the number of teeth or points per inch, the finer the cut. If a saw blade is rusty, clean it by rubbing it with steel wool dipped in turpentine substitute. If sticking occurs, rub the blade with a wax candle, but if the problem persists, the blade may need sharpening, resetting or replacing.
I arge handsaws (A) include: panel-cut saw for cutting with and across the grain, cross-cut saw for cutting across the grain and rip saw for cutting with the grain. All handsaws should cut freely under their own weight and your forward pressure. Stiff-back saws include the back saw, or tenon saw, (B) for cutting joints. Various specialist saws are: coping saw (C) for cutting curves in plastic or wood; fretsaw (D) for tighter curves in wood or plastic; hacksaws (E and F) for cutting metal; and pad saw (G) for cutting holes in a panel. Knives with replaceable blades can also be fitted with saw blades although these are only designed for sawing lightweight materials.
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Scraping and filling tools
Scrapers are indispensable to the restorer and are not interchangeable, although they, and some filling knives, look somewhat alike. Various scrapers are: paint scraper (A~ with a stiff blade for removing softened paint; filling knife (B), with a wider, flexible blade; putty knife (C), used to shape and smooth putty — available with three shapes ofblade depending on the preference of the user, palette knife (D), used to scrape pigments and mix media; skarsten (E), for smoothing timberor removing paint; and combination shave hook (F) — the most useful of the shave hooks with its curved and straight blades, ideal for scraping awkwardly shaped surfaces.